Sometimes we forget that everyone is naked underneath their clothes. As I watched a long procession of potential buyers and A-list celebrities walk into the Burberry Fall/Winter Fashion show, I tried to imagine (and not to imagine) certain people naked. Not flesh naked, but bare, so that I saw them only as people, as a single human being, regardless of what designer they were wearing.
Why could I not get past the cloth draped over their frame; the curve of a heel on a “to-die-for” piece of footwear; the terrible aubergine jacket with orange trim?
How is it that some clothes make us drool, while others make us gag?
Why can clothes completely bend our opinion of someone, based on what they wear?
If someone says “a man,” no one would think of anyone special, but as soon as they say “a man in a Prada suit” we immediately have an image. He’s a fashionable, handsome man in a really nice suit; probably wealthy; probably important; definitely sexy. Cue drool.
But what is this mystical power clothes hold over us? What strange magic they must possess to make us spend such a large portion of our minuscule disposable income on them. How do clothes do it?
Maybe it’s because I was born in September, arguably the most important month of the year in fashion. But I doubt only September babies feel the undeniable power of fashion.
To answer these profound questions I turn first, as usual, to the people I respect most.
Pablo Neruda’s “Ode to Clothes” gave me some insight into our bizarre relationship with pieces of fabric.
Ode to Clothes
Every morning you wait,
clothes, over a chair,
to fill yourself with
my vanity, my love,
my hope, my body.
Barely
risen from sleep,
I relinquish the water,
enter your sleeves,
my legs look for
the hollows of your legs,
and so embraced
by your indefatigable faithfulness
I rise, to tread the grass,
enter poetry,
consider through the windows,
the things,
the men, the women,
the deeds and the fights
go on forming me,
go on making me face things
working my hands,
opening my eyes,
using my mouth,
and so,
clothes,
I too go forming you,
extending your elbows,
snapping your threads,
and so your life expands
in the image of my life.
In the wind
you billow and snap
as if you were my soul,
at bad times
you cling
to my bones,
vacant, for the night,
darkness, sleep
populate with their phantoms
your wings and mine.
I wonder
if one day
a bullet
from the enemy
will leave you stained with my blood
and then
you will die with me
or one day
not quite
so dramatic
but simple,
you will fall ill,
clothes,
with me,
grow old
with me, with my body
and joined
we will enter
the earth.
Because of this
each day
I greet you
with reverence and then
you embrace me and I forget you,
because we are one
and we will go on
facing the wind, in the night,
the streets or the fight,
a single body,
one day, one day, some day, still.
~Pablo Neruda
Clothes become one with us. We become synonymous with our clothes. Who can think “Givenchy black dress” without thinking “Audrey Hepburn”? Or “safety pins and the Queen of England” without thinking “Vivienne Westwood”? Or “charcoal trousers” without thinking “Professor Steven Driscoll Hixson”? In a ceremony of matrimony, we unite ourselves with our clothes every morning. Getting dressed in the dark often leads to a bad marriage, and even divorce. And when our brief affairs turn “last season”, we take our ex-lovers to Goodwill, hoping someone else might elope with them at a seriously discounted price. But what are the rules of engagement? What are the rules of fashion? With a question so stupendous and absurd, I turn to an equally stupendous and absurd figure to answer it.
~Paris Hilton
The ever-wise Paris Hilton has made an interesting point. Fashion is a form of self-expression. In rare cases, we can see someone both naked and clothed, if their clothes are a true expression of their inner-selves. Or, we can see them both naked and clothed if their clothes are extremely sheer. But in its purest form:
“Fashion is only the attempt to realize art in living forms and social intercourse.”
~ Francis Bacon
But fashion is a great paradox. It is accessible only to the elite, but eventually the masses. In a strange “circle of life” way fashion unites us all in an interwoven textile web of existence. A favorite quote from “The Devil Wears Prada” best exemplifies this sentiment:
“This… ‘stuff’? Oh… ok. I see, you think this has nothing to do with you. You go to your closet and you select out, oh I don’t know, that lumpy blue sweater, for instance, because you’re trying to tell the world that you take yourself too seriously to care about what you put on your back. But what you don’t know is that that sweater is not just blue, it’s not turquoise, it’s not lapis, it’s actually cerulean. You’re also blindly unaware of the fact that in 2002, Oscar De La Renta did a collection of cerulean gowns. And then I think it was Yves St Laurent, wasn’t it, who showed cerulean military jackets? And then cerulean quickly showed up in the collections of 8 different designers. Then it filtered down through the department stores and then trickled on down into some tragic casual corner where you, no doubt, fished it out of some clearance bin. However, that blue represents millions of dollars and countless jobs and so it’s sort of comical how you think that you’ve made a choice that exempts you from the fashion industry when, in fact, you’re wearing the sweater that was selected for you by the people in this room. From a pile of stuff.”
But fashion is not restricted to clothing. It is not always found in department stores, corner boutiques, haberdasheries, and runways.
“Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening.”
~Coco Chanel
But like seasons, fashions come and go. Ideas flow, and in the blink of an eye what as cute yesterday is hideous today.
“Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months.”
~Oscar Wilde
I’d much rather be called stylish than fashionable.
“Fashions fade, style is eternal.”
~Yves Saint Laurent
If anything, fashion is fickle. It’s flighty and fake and so often shallow.
Open any fashion magazine and you’ll see underweight models who’ve been airbrushed past recognition, so unreal and unattainable they make you feel just guilty enough to eat a bland salad instead of the deliciously greasy sandwich you really craved.
Stand outside in the freezing cold to take pictures of people you’ve never seen before walk into a fashion show and you’ll realize that underneath their Gucci handbags, Jimmy Choo’s, Versace skirts and Prada suits, they’re naked just like the rest of us: their self expression just has a bigger price tag on it.
“Above all, remember that the most important thing you can take anywhere is not a Gucci bag or French-cut jeans; it's an open mind”
~Gail Rubin Bereny